Roger Schäli – not just an Eiger passion.


Photo Frank Kretschmann

We all have our own passions, be it a sport, a special place, a cool song, a feel-good film.  But going up a hard mountain like the Eiger north face for over thirty-five times (yes, 35!) falls into what category?  A mere running after the adrenaline? A test to one’s nerves? Or pure madness?

Without doubt such an intensely hard feat disguises something most people forget: respect.  Respect for mighty mountains which, invariably, translates into respect for the others and ourselves.

This, and much more, is stated on Roger Schäli’s website, which I had the pleasure of translating into English.  Here, you can learn about Roger as a person, not only the exceptional mountaineer, see marvellous pictures and watch great movies, but also find out about his climbing partners, as well as his achievements and the many routes opened all over the world, from Greenland to the Himalayas, Yosemite to Patagonia, and of course the Eiger north face.

I met Roger at the International Mountain Summit in Brixen in 2011 and immediately enjoyed his good nature and simple manners.  A sensitive soul, he is also involved in charitable ventures such as his Roger for Africa project.     Africa is a hot topic right now. And rightly so, for there lies our future.

Roger’s girlfriend, Yuri Kato, who designed the website, helped me with the translation. Theirs is a compelling love story. Her father was part of the 1969 team which first climbed the Japanese Direttissima on the Eiger north face. Could he have found a better match?  I strongly doubt it.


Hexenküche, Gimmelwald, Berner Oberland (Photo Claudia Ziegler)


Zauberlehrling, Cima Scotoni (Photo Frank Kretschmann)


Photo Xandi Kreuzeder


Japanese Direttissima, Eiger North Face (Photo Frank Kretschmann)


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